Birth of an Idea
The Big Picture
The idea of a Mexican bike leg was conceptualized shortly after Tony and Don finished a brutal leg of this trip in Alaska (where they dodged rain, mud, mosquitos and grizzlies) in the summer of 2019. Although they invited several friends to come along, no one did–perhaps this route just didn’t have the needed excitement factor?
In September 2019, it was clear that the US border with Mexico would be the next start point–it was just a matter of which route. And given the well-known problems with drug cartels and central American migrants in Northern Mexico, the Baja California option looked like the best option, with January 2020 being the most sensible start time. So this was the idea floated out to several previous attendees: Meet in San Diego on January 5th or 6th, with a view to crossing the border by bike on the morning of January 7, 2020.
Response was relatively swift and positive–some 8 riders were enthusiastically interested in doing this trip! (one has since bailed due to a January date with an orthopedic surgeon). But an unexpected surprise was Mark’s recent purchase of a Sprinter van (which was bought to be camperized), which could serve as a great support vehicle, as in a previous trip. (Mark had brought a Honda Odyssey along for the 2013 ride from Victoria to San Francisco, which had worked out well supporting 6 riders).
Discussions and the exploration of details began in earnest. Tony has explored possible route options and rest days, while Don researched meetup locations and accommodation options. Mark notched up his van build planning and renovating, while planning his own route to drive down to San Diego in the middle of winter.
And so it begins...
Since Mark was going to drive his Sprinter van to Mexico, he would need to leave several days earlier than the rest of the guys flying down. He would therefore have to get organized that much earlier as well.
After a frenzied few weeks of van construction–mostly insulating for anticipated temperature extremes–and finally some packing of needed clothes, bike stuff, food, coolers, first aid kits, bedding, etc., things were finally coming together. After Don and Tony dropped off their bikes and some gear by the end of December, Mark was ready to go by January 1st.
January 1, 2020
Day 1
What a better day than January 1st to start a new adventure! With a charged up laptop and phone, fresh ice in the cooler, a week’s worth of food and drink loaded up, a passport, some US and Mexican currency, Mark got onto the road by 7AM.
Although 2 nights before a winter storm had dumped significant snow that had to be shovelled, this morning was warm (by Canadian standards)—above zero, so the roads were not icy—and the lack of traffic on the first holiday of the year made for a great travel day.
At the US border by about 9:30, there were the usual questions about drugs, cash, and firearms, destination, expected time in the USA, where home is. The vehicle was inspected for fresh fruits and vegetables.
After gassing up at the first station just a mile from the border, the morning went unremarkably, Google Maps directions lead to a variety of highway changes to drive south toward Ellensburg and Yakima before eventual first day’s destination just south of Goldenrod: the Maryhill State Park on the Columbia River.
It was a nice drive. The scenery was remarkably variable through Washington—some orchards, some desert scrub, some prairie-like farm land. There were some dramatic canyons, and fortunately a dry Satus pass south of Yakima, The snow that was visible in the north had given way to spring like temps, of 13C by mid day, in mid-state. Very windy all day though— making the drive more interesting than anticipated.
The state Park was mostly shut down—the water to campsites was shut off, the bathrooms were closed—just a porta=potty to use. Camping was pretty lonely, while the wind howled at light, shaking the van for several hours. The temperature was just above freezing overnight–somewhat chilly in the unheated vehicular tin box!
Day 1: Kelowna to the Columbia River
Day 2: Hood River to Yreka, California
January 2.
Day 2 of the road trip began unremarkably by 6:30 AM. The scenic Hwy 80 through The Dalles and Hood River to Portland is via the Columbia Gorge—lovely, even though it rained. Lots of semi trailers on this route, which were eventually joined by increasing city morning traffic.
Mark stopped in Cresswell for gas and a wifi break at the local public library. Fun fact: Did you know that Oregon remains one of only two states that still require all gas stations to be full service? (New Jersey is the other one). Presumably to help the economy, specifically to give college kids jobs, according to the young gas station attendant. And contrary to belief, the gas prices are cheaper in Oregon than in California.
I-5 through Oregon is a beautiful and scenic highway, looking like BC with several mountain passes up to 4500 ft.
Most of the rest stops along the way in Oregon were pretty average, but there was a nice one just south of Portland and a great one just across the state line into California. Managed to gas up again and fix my headlights! Will try to sleep at Walmart tonight. Fun fact: Probably the nicest rest area in California is the first one–it is near Hornbrook. It is called the Randolph E Collier Rest Area, at exit 786 going south–clean and quiet, and in an idyllic setting near a small river. Another fun fact: While Mark was using Google maps for verbal directions on the drive, the verbal narrative was interrupted with a quick warning: “photo radar ahead”. Sure enough, a moment later, a police car was noticed hiding in the scrub on the median, clocking cars driving by.
The destination at the end of this second day was the Rain Rock Casino, just south of Yreka, California, where they let you park overnight if you register with security. The wifi signal is available in the parking lot! As this is a mountain town, a clear night made it cold here—minus 3C over night. Another challenging night in a tin box.
January 3
Although there was frost on the windows, Mark was on the road early to start day 3, in part to warm up the vehicle. The first hour of driving was in the dark, but it was cool to see the silhouette of Mt Shasta looming as the morning progressed. The highway was quiet, fortunately not icy. The truckers were almost the only ones on the road. The first destination of the day: Sacramento.
Lots of curves toward Weed and then Redding, where I gassed up at a truck stop at the south end of town. At the time, Mark just wasn’t sure what diesel #2 was, but it is the preferred ULSD (Ultra Low Sulfur Diesel. The fun facts continue: It is sometimes blended with #1 in colder climates, so the fuel does not gel up. However, fuel efficiency is better with Diesel #2. Biodiesel, widely available here in the US, is not recommended for many kinds of vehicles, including Sprinters.
Palm trees are first visible north of Sacramento–a reliable sign of decreasing latitude. The large farming areas her included massive acreages of trees—some almond, some olive, and eventually pistachio.
Since some websites state that the Walmarts in Woodland allow overnight dry camping, Mark checked this out by asking a store manager at the Walmart on Main Street (next to the highway). Fun fact: “We turn a blind eye to overnight campers, not encouraging or discouraging the practice. We don’t tow anyone though.” Good to know.
Mark found an classic old barbershop in Stockton, established there in Lincoln Centre for about 60 years, and still charging just $15 for a haircut. In the drive between Stockton and Bakersfield, there was only one rest area that stood out–at Dunnigan, mil marker 556. Except for one at Willows (mile marker 608), the rest were mediocre at best.
I-5 is a great highway–no real traffic problems, lots of turnoffs for gas, and rest stops about every 40 miles. Mark gassed up again at an unofficial truck stop turnoff at Coalinga, where there were dozens of big commercial rigs parked for a rest. Since it was getting dark, Mark decided to spend the night there–in the parking lot of the local Starbucks (the manager confirmed that even big rigs will use their parking lot overnight at times)–there was even accessible wifi out in their parking lot, while tucked into bed! Lots of truck sounds though, especially since there is a huge truck fueling station nearby. Another cool night, but no longer frosty.
Day 3: Yreka to Coalinga
Day 4: Bakersfield to Victorville
January 4
Day 4 on the road began by about 6:45, after a good sleep in a cool night, but not below zero. The first destination of the day: Bakersfield, which is east of I-5. On the first leg of this drive, Mark had noticed a couple of off-ramps leading to gas stations, and more overnighting trucks–more options for dry camping that would be preferable to the official Rest Areas on I-5. Too bad that the LA smog was already apparent on the way there, curtailing visibility on what would otherwise have been a clear sunny morning.
Since these days bathrooms and wifi are ubiquitous, whether in Walmart, JC Penney or Starbucks, Bakersfield is a good excuse for a stop at one of the large shopping centres.
Once through Bakersfield, a lovely highway courses south and then east, through pistachio orchards, and orange trees. Wanna try a super-fresh farm orange and a strawberry at a fruit stand on the way to Victorville? The samples they provide are delicious.
Victorville is surprisingly big as a high desert town seemingly in the middle of nowhere. On the southwestern edge of the Mojave desert, and on the historical Route 66, modern Victorville is a new city that was only incorporated in 1962. Weather here is pleasant even in January-with a daytime high of about 20C and clear sunny skies, although the nights are cool, in the lower single digits.
It is pretty easy to dry camp here. The Walmart is huge, has opening hours from 5AM-11PM 7 days a week, with staff working around the clock, so there are always cars in the video-surveilled parking lot. There is even a large gravel lot on one side of the building, where several semi trailers are resting on any given day. There is an RV park at the north end of town called the Oasis RV Park, where you can dry camp for $20/night. Or you can go farther north, to Bell mountain where dirt bikers hang out and sometime camp.
At the Roy Rogers turn-off there is a shopping centre on La Paz drive that has a couple of gyms, on of which has a pool. The day rate is $10 or $16 for the one with the pool. Mark tried the 25m saline pool and their therapy pools–feels good after a long drive. Because he presented just 90 minutes before they closed, they provided access for free on that day.
After 4 days of steady driving, Mark chose Victorville to take a rest day here. It included a little bit of shopping, another swim day, and some exploration of this town of more than 120,000. A second night of dry camping in the Walmart parking lot was also in the cards.
Day 5: Rest day in Victorville
Day 6: Victorville to San Ysidro
After an appointment to install a new window first thing in the morning, Mark left Victorville around noon to drive the last 3 hour stretch to the border town of San Ysidro, to meet up with the rest of the crew at the Valli Hi Motel. The timing proved to be almost perfect–Don, Tony, John, Ross, and Ken arrived by air and then Uber just a half hour before Mark drove into the motel parking lot, delivering Tony and Don’s bike and bags in the process. That evening, we drove to a Mexican restaurant called Achiote in the Plaza de Las Americas, for our first taste of Mexican food and beer.
The stage was now set: Mark and Ross would drive the van across the border, and a meeting place in Rosarito was identified for the 4 cyclists to rendezvous with the van, where we would all buy SIM cards for our phones.left Victorville